An age where make-Up reverses, aka how to avoid the knife…. (Come now I cannot reveal ALL my secrets)….

Hello SkinLovers Miss Me? 😀

Cosmetics are the best answer to many of nature’s imperfections. Here all the tricks and hints from moi to help you look terrific.

 

Once you reach 40 (some people even younger, due to photo-damage & smoking, sometimes unhealthy lifestyles or even healthy ones extreme weight loss and so on), facial lines, sagging and textural changes become more apparent, and a new set of make up rules is in order. If you put on cosmetics correctly you’ll take years off your looks. You know that some of those lines you see are not from age or damage, they could be simply that you are de-hydrated and need to up your intake of liquids).

The biggest mistake women over 40 make is where & howthey apply colour, not what they apply. To solve this problem I suggest dividing the face geometrically to locate where colour is appropriate.

For example, if you want to discover where to put on make-up to hide sagging I recommend drawing a line down the centre of your face. Then draw a diagonal line from midpoint of the chin upward, just past the arch of the eyebrow. A third line should extend from the brow to the temple, and a fourth from the temple to the chin. Shade any area between the fourth line and the ear twice as dark as your natural skin tone (Dark foundation or bronzing sticks are excellent).

Facial mapping SketchA

A few fast and flawless camouflage techniques are important for the over 40 crowd. To mask lines always apply eye sticks and/or moisturisers first, so cover ups don’t gather in crevices. Prime lines between brows by painting them with a slim brush dipped in a silicone primer (baby oil will do too). With the same brush, stroke on concealer; blend well before applying foundation. For deeper lines, use the same method with a cream- formula cover up, one shade lighter than your base.

Foundation is a must. It balances texture and colour, plus it helps all your other make up last longer. A sheer base is best, applied with a damp sponge which allows you to control how transparently colour goes on.

Blush brightens skin, and makes you appear healthy, young and fresh, it also counteracts paleness. The condition of your skin determines the type of blush you need. A mousse blush adds moisture; powder can de-emphasise large pores.

If your hair is fair or white, keep cheek colour away from your hairline, as the contrast is too jarring. Place it toward the centre of your face on the cheekbones. By the way if you are of middle-eastern ancestry DO NOT DYE YOUR HAIR RED, it ages you and makes your skin look sallow.

Powder when applied correctly will remove shine, which could draw attention to the shadows caused by wrinkles. Translucent loose powder will leave a smooth finish, and, because it takes on the exact colour of your base it will look the most natural.

 

Although the eye area is one of the first to age, it is also the easiest to re-juvenate.

Eyebrows well-defined in shape and colour can help minimise the appearance of frown lines (Botox is a viable option), and heavy lids. Correct thinning eyebrows by filling in with a shade in your hair colour family. To correct greying brows with a waterproof eye pencil or shadow, draw them in by using vertical, feathery strokes, then blend with a soft toothbrush (if you have blonde hair use a golden pencil/shadow, and copper for brunettes) then set with a transparent/ clear mascara or eyebrow gel.

When applying shadow, start by smoothing on a tiny amount of light concealer or foundation, a base for colour to come. To be sure the coverage is even over the tiny crevices of a more mature eye; always use an applicator or cotton swab as fingers will not blend as well.

Most powder and cream eyeshadows today are made from a silicone base so it makes a layer that doesn’t clog the pores nor will it emphasise the lines, these are recommended for the over 40 eyes. Some say the matte colours are more flattering, but I prefer to use a combination of matte and shimmer (not glittery), what you must avoid: Very creamy eyeshadows that melt and accentuate the lines and accumulate in the folds of the eyelid; most black eyeshadows; glittery eyeshadow that accentuate the crepey eyelid skin; plus the exaggerated application of too many colours on the lids.

Pay attention to the natural shape of your eyes. Use neutral colours to help define the eyes contours, create a look that is sophisticated but not overdone. For example with a square tipped-brush, add a subtle sweep of light brown colour from the corner of the eye up to the brows end. This plus a soft brown eye pencil on the upper lid will lift the eye. For undereye circles try these tips: Use two concealers’ one in pale blue and then cover with your natural shade. Or a concealer in a very pale orange this should neutralise the blue in the skin.

With white, pale silver or blonde hair, keep the shadow and liner closer to the eye, rather than extending colour. Stick to pretty flower tints –blues, Violets, Lavenders, Greens- in diffused shades for shadows; choose pencils in dark navy, hunters green, and most shades of grey.

Eyeliner pencils, eyeshadows applied with a slim brush, and liquid eyeliners, in soft mauve, greys, browns, and plums keep the eyes from looking too harsh. End liner at the eyes outer corner, and soften the line with a moistened cotton swab. Lining inside the eye with a dark liner will make your eyes appear smaller (no matter what all Arab women think, dark decreases size, hence the piggy eyed look), a lighter shade of gold or flesh with shimmer will widen the eye. Lining under the eye might cause an exaggeration in appearance of wrinkles, you have to really practice and know what you are doing, also if you are going to line under your eyes choose a taupe shade that is a mid-range colour and nothing too dark.

Curling your eyelashes will instantly give the appearance of a younger-eyed look, takes the focus away from puffy eyelids. Next put on mascara sparingly, instead of black or dark brown use two or three coats of light brown, dark green, or grey. There are some shimmer mascaras (these contain two or three colours of shimmer in a dark base colour) that enhance your eye colour and work excellently with shimmer make up (matte black will look too harsh). Remember to let each layer of mascara dry before re-applying and to comb them through too between applications.

Women over 40 most of the times are forced to wear eyeglasses (though laser & Lasik surgery has done away with a lot of that), but just in case you still wear glasses here are a few pointers: Reading glasses magnify eyes. If you use a cream or stick concealer to hide under eye darkness, it will appear to be heavier seen through these lenses; instead switch to a light coloured foundation (with extra coverage), applied to down where the frames rest. Neutral shadows look best, and be sure to groom your lashes after mascara application to remove any clumps and fiddly bits.

Lenses to correct nearsightedness (Myopia) will make eyes look smaller; to bring them forward, use a soft pencil close to lashes, and blend upward with an eyeshadow brush, extend shadow from lid up towards browbone.

Lens colour can hide bad features, including under eye puffiness (Sharon Stone usually opts for blue coloured sunglasses in order to disguise fatigue from long flights). With gradient shading /Polarised lenses you can have your lenses clearest in the vision area (whites will look brighter) and darker where you want to hide bags or lines. The best way to select lens colour is to compliment your hair tone. Blue is best for brunettes, brown or grey hair; yellow for blondes.

   With age, your lips – free of oil glands and continually losing their supportive collagen and elastin – become dry and wrinkled .Plus, as teeth and gum weakens, they can actually make the lip shape diminish (hence the popularity of  temporary fillers for the lips Collagen, Restylane, or the dreaded silicone for the more permanent, but beware silicone migrates with gravity). But fortunately, with the right application techniques, and products you can easily mask these problems (thus delaying the need for fillers for a while yet).

Those tiny vertical lines around the lips will look even more prominent when your lipstick ‘Bleeds’. Two good preventives: Always prime the lips with moisturising balms (Carmex and Mentholatum Ice-lips are excellent my personal favourite in summer is QV face lip-balm SPF30+ by Ego) as they contain wax and plump the lips up, choose ones with sunscreen (yes your lips can get sunburnt), next smooth on foundation. When applying colour, start with a firm non-greasy lip pencil (the wax or Dimethicone in the pencil will create a barrier so the lipstick wont bleed) – your most versatile tool. Keep the outline natural by gently stretching lips between thumb and forefinger, then applying liner. Stay as close as possible to your original shape, neither- over nor under- exaggerating. If you want the illusion of fuller lips (you can also use Lip Injection by Too Faced, it causes the lips to swell and become full), try outlining the outermost edges of your, but always maintain your natural outline, never going obviously in- or outside of it. If you have tiny cracks at the corners of your mouth never line there at all.

Lip pencils are ideal for staining lips with stay-put colour. Simply rub the pencil on primed lips, use a lipbrush to blend, and apply matching lipstick over.

The best lip shades are soft, luminous, don’t accentuate wrinkles. Choose one of the new lightweight, semi-sheer hues. High sheen glosses tend to smear (but newer formulations are long lasting). If you prefer shine dab some gloss in the centre of the bottom lip area. Lipcolours with conditioning and protective ingredients are another wise choice. They stay fresh and moist looking, and help alleviate dryness and chapping. For the most even texture, use a lipbrush to apply lipstick inward from outer corners. Stay within the lipliner then blend colour into lips.

To make lipstick last longer (though this can be redundant in this day of long and longer lasting lipsticks) and to stop it from bleeding into any possible vertical lines, Line the lips with a lipliner in a shade lighter than your lips, then fill in lips with lipstick. Blot excess lipstick with a tissue, remove one ply of tissue and place over lips and powder with a translucent powder, and re-apply lipstick and coat the lips with Benefits ‘She- Lac’, and your lips should last all night.

 

My Favourite Age reducing make-up products:

  • Invisible Line fillers (nearly every brand makes these nowadays).
  • Lip injection (by Two Faced).
  • Photo FinishPrimer (bySmashbox)
  • Feelgood. (by Benefits).
  • Stay Put Stick primer (by Benefits).
  • Bronzer Sticks (Generic).
  • Nude 01 lipliner (by Helena Rubinstein).

 

This article is to prove that I am not age-ist, and that I am of the firm belief that ‘nearly’ all women are beautiful without a doubt, no matter what their age might be.

#AmmaniMkupArtist #MkUpisLife #MkUpCapriceDeLaDrama
#LovegivingadviceonMkUp #London #Paris #Berlin #Stockholm #Lausanne #Vienna #Bratislava #BUdapest #Sophia #Barcelona

 

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About descantia

A melting pot of contradictions! Artist, Designer (most media), Copywriter, Thespian, Chanteuse, Dancer, Performance artist, Make-up artist and so much more... The penultimate liberal hedonist with conservative leanings! Exacting, free, libertine with a Courtesan mentality! Honest, blunt, viciously unkind when dealing with fools, ingrates, liars, and any deceivers. Detests: Hypocrisy, Disloyalty, Infidelity, Stupidity, Anyone Devoid of Morals Ethics and decent manners and behaviour. Loves being a Snarky Grumpy Bitter Old Elitist!
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